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WHICH POTTING SOIL?
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When I go into a garden center, all the different types and brands of potting soil, top soil and peat moss are overwhelming. Which ones are the best for pots? For flower beds? Is it really necessary to buy one that has fertilizer in it? B.O. |
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It can be confusing when garden centers stock so many different types of “soil.” The choice depends on the intended use. For pots and containers, a true soil-less potting mix is best. These have components such as perlite and vermiculite that increase drainage and aeration. Potting mixes are also sterile, which helps prevent diseases.
Regular garden soil or purchased top soil will pack down in a pot, restricting water and air movement. It can also harbor insects and diseases. Be careful when buying potting mix because all brands are not made equal. Check the label to make sure that soil is not a component.
If your goal is to supplement your own top soil in flower beds or to add organic matter, purchased top soil and peat moss can be good options. However, if a free source of manure, leaves, compost or other organic matter is available, it would be more economical and environmentally friendly than peat moss.
For areas needing a large amount of supplemental top soil, it is often more economical to split a load of top soil from a local construction company than buy many small bags from a garden center. Just be sure to look at the top soil before agreeing to buy, just to ensure it is good quality. |
OH DEER!
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I live by a wooded area and have a horrible time keeping plants alive because the deer always eat them. Can you tell me some successful ways of keeping deer out of my garden or give me some plants that are deer-proof? M.J.<br />
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Deer are one of the most problematic of wildlife nuisances. They are very adaptable creatures that often thwart our efforts to keep them away from prize flower and vegetable gardens.
There are several different approaches to reducing deer damage. Usually these include repellents, scare tactics, exclusion and habitat modification. The first two approaches rarely work in the long term. Exclusion works, but can require significant money and labor inputs.
Habitat modification for homeowners generally involves selecting plants that are less likely to be damaged. I can’t give you the names of any plants that are deer-proof. I can give you names of plants that are deer-resistant. Even plants that deer do not particularly like can be browsed if there are not enough native food sources.
Some trees and shrubs that are less prone to deer damage include Russian olive, loblolly and shortleaf pine, boxwood, barberry, paper birch, American holly, desert willow, flameleaf sumac, mimosa, rosemary, cotoneaster, junipers, nandina, aucuba and wax myrtle.
Possible perennial garden plants to try include salvia, yarrow, Echinacea, artemisia, gaillardia, lavender, black-eyed Susan, lamb’s ear, penstemon, anise hyssop and vinca. Annuals that show less deer appeal include snapdragon, scented geranium, marigold and nasturtium.
Besides these, there is always the option of thorny plants like cacti, yuccas, agaves, pyracantha and others. Ornamental grasses are usually not very palatable for deer, especially when they get older, tougher stems.
Avoid plants in the rose family, as these seem to be especially tasty to deer. Some rosaceous members include fruit trees like cherries, apples, crabapples, pears, plums, quince and, of course, roses. Other very susceptible plants include tulips, hostas, lilies, pansies and sunflowers. |
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